How to Clean a Trophy? Guide to Cleaning Different Materials & More

A practical, do-no-harm guide to help you freshen up trophies and plaques at home without scratching, stripping plating or lifting lacquer.

Identify the Material of Your Trophy

A quick bit of detective work will save you headaches later. Many trophies are a mix - think a metal cup on a wooden plinth with felt underneath - so treat each part on its own terms and keep liquids away from joints, screws and the base. Start with the metal:


If your cup has hallmarks (for example, the lion passant for sterling), you’re likely looking at solid silver; no hallmarks and a slightly different tone at worn edges usually means silver-plate. Unlike solid silver trophies, plated pieces have only a thin layer of silver over a base metal, so the safest approach is light washing and a gentle silver cloth rather than anything abrasive.


For brass, decide whether it’s lacquered or unlacquered. Lacquered brass has a glassy, even shine that doesn’t tarnish in patches; polishing it like bare metal will just scratch the clear coat. Unlacquered brass does darken naturally over time and can take a non-abrasive brass polish sparingly, after a mild soapy wash.


Gold-plated cups are typically brass beneath a very thin gold layer. Treat them as delicate plating: mild soap, soft cloth, no scouring powders, no “home remedies” that rely on acids or abrasives.


Awards made from acrylic/plastic behave differently to glass or crystal. Acrylic is lighter and warmer to the touch and scratches easily - avoid ammonia, acetone and alcohol. Glass and crystal can handle a little more, but you still want mild cleaners and to apply them to the cloth rather than spraying near wooden bases.

Finally, look at wooden plaques and plinths. A sealed or varnished finish will tolerate a lightly damp cloth; unfinished wood should be kept dry and dusted only. Whatever you’re cleaning, support it on a soft towel so you’re not chasing dings while you chase fingerprints.



Golden rules before you begin

  • Start with the least aggressive method (dust → mild soap → specialist cloth).
  • Test on an inconspicuous spot first.
  • Work on a soft, padded surface and wear cotton or nitrile gloves to avoid fresh marks.


Quick kit (what you need to clean your trophy)


Essentials

  • Soft microfibre cloths (keep separate ones for washing and drying)
  • Mild washing-up liquid
  • Distilled water (prevents spotting on silver and glass)
  • Soft brushes (make-up or artist’s) for crests and engraving
  • Cotton buds for tight corners
  • Lint-free towel or old cotton T-shirt for drying
  • Gloves (cotton or nitrile)

Material-specific add-ons

  • Silver polishing cloth (impregnated; for light tarnish on silver/silver-plate)
  • Non-abrasive brass polish (for unlacquered brass only, used sparingly)
  • Acrylic-safe cleaner (or just mild soapy water)
  • Anti-tarnish strips/cloths for storing silver

Avoid (to keep things safe)

  • Abrasive pads/powders and metal wadding
  • Ammonia, acetone or alcohol on acrylic/plastic
  • Strong bleach or harsh acids/alkalis on any finish
  • Immersing mixed-material trophies (water creeps into plinths and felt)


How to clean silver & silver-plated trophies (and why dips can be risky)

Silver and silver-plate respond best to the gentlest possible treatment. Plated items have only a thin layer of silver over a base metal, so the aim is to clean, not scour.


How to clean silver trophies: step-by-step


  1. Dust the trophy with a soft brush to lift grit from crests, handles and engraving.
  2. Make a bowl of warm water with a drop of mild washing-up liquid.
  3. Dampen a soft microfibre cloth, wring out well, then wipe gently over the surface. Avoid soaking joins or the base.
  4. Rinse the cloth in distilled water and wipe again to remove suds.
  5. Dry immediately with a lint-free towel by blotting and patting.
  6. For light tarnish, finish with a silver polishing cloth using minimal pressure and straight strokes. Stop as soon as the shine returns.

Why chemical dips are risky: dips can creep into hollow components and are hard to rinse out fully; they may pit or etch the surface and will remove a little silver each time, thinning silver-plate. If you’re unsure whether a piece is plated or hollow, avoid dips entirely.

Good to know: abrasive pastes and wadding remove metal along with tarnish - use sparingly, if at all. Store silver away from sulphur sources and prioritise dusting over frequent polishing. If in doubt, stop and ask a professional.



How to clean brass trophies & brass plaques

First decide if the brass is lacquered (sealed) or unlacquered (bare). The care is different and treating lacquered brass like bare metal will scratch the clear coat.


Lacquered brass - step-by-step

  1. Dust with a soft brush or dry microfibre cloth.
  2. Wipe lightly with a barely damp microfibre cloth and a drop of mild soap if needed.
  3. Immediately dry with a clean cloth to avoid water marks.

Unlacquered brass - step-by-step

  1. Wash gently with warm water and mild soap using a soft cloth; avoid soaking joins and bases.
  2. Rinse with a cloth dampened in clean water; dry thoroughly.
  3. If tarnish remains, apply a non-abrasive brass polish sparingly. Work in small areas and keep clear of engraved lettering.
  4. Buff with a clean microfibre to an even sheen.

Tips and cautions: home mixes such as lemon or vinegar can etch bare brass and stain adjacent materials - use with care and rinse thoroughly, or avoid. Always test any product on an inconspicuous area first; if unsure whether it’s lacquered, treat it as sealed and stick to a damp-wipe only.



How to clean gold-plated trophies/cups

Gold-plated cups are usually brass beneath an ultra-thin gold layer. The rule is simple: be gentle and avoid anything abrasive or chemically aggressive.


How to clean gold trophies: step-by-step


  1. Dust with a soft brush.
  2. Wipe with a cloth dampened in warm water + a drop of mild soap; don’t rub at stubborn spots.
  3. Follow with a second cloth dampened in clean water to remove any residue.
  4. Pat dry immediately with a lint-free towel.


Avoid: abrasive polishes, powders, metal wadding, scouring pads and “tarnish removers”; acidic or alkaline home remedies can undercut or strip the plating.

Good to know: if marks persist, it may be the base metal showing through - further polishing will only make it worse. Consider re-plating rather than continued cleaning.



How to clean plastic/acrylic awards

Acrylic (PMMA) scratches and “crazes” easily. Keep the method simple and solvent-free, and handle with clean microfibre at all times.


How to clean plastic trophies: step-by-step


  1. Blow off dust or use a very soft brush to avoid dragging grit across the surface.
  2. Wipe with a microfibre cloth dampened in warm water + a tiny drop of mild soap.
  3. Rinse with a cloth dampened in clean water.
  4. Blot dry - don’t rub hard - and allow to air dry fully before handling.


Avoid: ammonia, acetone, alcohol and glass cleaners that contain them (they cause clouding and stress-cracks), plus abrasive pads, paper towels or gritty cloths. Only use products specifically labelled acrylic-safe if absolutely necessary.

Handling and storage: keep a dedicated clean microfibre for acrylic, store in a dust-free cabinet, and avoid stacking pieces directly against each other. If in doubt, stop - DIY polishing can easily make deep scratches worse.



How to clean wood plaques & bases

Wood needs a lighter touch than metal. Start by identifying the finish: sealed/varnished wood will tolerate a barely damp wipe, while waxed or oiled surfaces prefer dry cleaning and a light re-wax. Unfinished wood should not be wet-cleaned at all. Whatever the finish, keep moisture to a minimum, apply any cleaner to the cloth (not directly to the plaque), and steer clear of joints, felt, screws and nameplates.


How to clean wooden plaques: step-by-step


  1. Dust gently with a soft microfibre cloth or a clean, soft brush, working with the grain.
  2. For sealed/varnished wood, wipe with a barely damp cloth and a drop of mild washing-up liquid. Wring the cloth well before it touches the surface.
  3. Dry immediately with a lint-free cloth to prevent tide marks and swelling at edges.
  4. For waxed/oiled wood, stick to dry dusting. If needed, apply a tiny amount of microcrystalline or beeswax, let it haze, then buff lightly to an even sheen.
  5. Use cotton buds around engraved plates and fittings; avoid forcing moisture under plinth bands or into felt.


Avoid: soaking or steaming, spraying polish directly onto the wood, abrasive pads, and solvent-heavy or silicone furniture sprays that leave residues and can interfere with future refinishing. Never flood edges, veneers, or end grain—swelling and lifting are hard to reverse.

Good to know: if you spot lifted veneer, loose screws, deep water rings or cracks, pause and seek advice. Keep wooden bases away from radiators and direct sunlight, add soft pads underneath to protect shelves, and give pieces a little space so they don’t rub against neighbouring awards.



How to clean a tarnished trophy: when to escalate old pieces

Some pieces are better left to a professional clean. If a silver or silver-plated trophy has heavy, uneven tarnish that doesn’t shift with mild soap and a silver cloth, repeated polishing can thin the surface and soften engraving. Stop if you notice reddish or yellow tones breaking through on “silver” areas (that’s the base metal showing), any lifting or crazing of lacquer on brass, or pitting on gold-plate. Mixed-material cups with hollow stems or handles are also risky to treat at home because liquids can wick into joints, felt, or wood.

Other red flags include loose finials or handles, missing screws, enamel badges, inlaid stones, or a wooden base with lifted veneer. If any of these apply, it’s time to escalate: we can advise on safe cleaning, re-securing hardware, replacing damaged plates, or referring for professional re-plating where appropriate.



Prevention (how to keep them shiny)

Prevention beats polishing. Handle trophies with clean cotton or nitrile gloves and give them a gentle dust with a soft microfibre cloth before fingerprints harden. Keep displays away from kitchens, bathrooms, radiators, and direct sunlight; stable conditions help - think moderate humidity and temperature, not the window ledge in full sun.

For silver, store in a closed cabinet with anti-tarnish cloths or strips and keep sulphur sources (rubber bands, some papers and foams) well away. Dusting plus the very occasional pass with a quality silver cloth is kinder than frequent polishing. Brass fares best when you know the finish: lacquered brass only needs light damp-wiping and drying; unlacquered brass can take a sparing, non-abrasive polish after washing. Acrylic awards should be cleaned with mild soapy water and their own dedicated microfibre - no ammonia, acetone, or alcohol. Glass and crystal like a final wipe with distilled water to avoid spots; always apply cleaner to the cloth, not directly over wooden plinths.

For wood bases and plaques, stick to dry dusting or a barely damp cloth on sealed finishes, and avoid silicone sprays that leave residues. Store pieces with a little air around them so they don’t rub together, and use soft pads under bases to prevent scratches on shelves.



Need an update rather than a deep clean?

Sometimes the smartest move isn’t more elbow grease - it’s a refresh. If the nameplate is scratched or past its best, we can replace it with a new engraved plate (brass, aluminium, or brass-look laminate) matched to size and fixings. Perpetual trophies can be revived with fresh year bars or side shields, and we can add missing winners to keep the record complete. Worn ribbons, tired centres or plinth bands can be swapped for new ones to lift the whole presentation without touching the original cup.

If a finish is failing - gold-plate thinning, silver-plate worn through, or lacquer badly damaged - you may need to consider further actions; from gentle conservation cleaning to re-engraving or referral for professional re-plating. The result is a trophy that looks loved and ready for its next presentation, without risking the details that make it special.

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